North of Greece - Pelion, Meteora and Zagori

It was a surprise Journey for my 50th birthday, my wife surprised me with a touching slideshow capturing our life together. Since traveling has always been a big part of our family life she dedicated an entire section to our adventures. As I watched, one photo stood out: a Roman bridge I didn’t recognize. Turns out, it was a hint—our next trip was already planned: a journey to Northern Greece, just five days away.

My wife, knowing how much I love planning trips, had done the perfect thing: she chose the region, booked the flights, and left the rest for me to plan.

Until then—2019—we had never been to Greece. It was as if we were saving it for that stage in life when long-haul flights feel like too much. Our flights were into Athens and back from Thessaloniki, which meant we could cross a large part of Northern Greece from south to north. So, I sat down and got to work.

The internet wasn’t as packed with content as it is today, but my method hasn’t changed: I mark all the “must-see” spots that people say are unmissable, then use Google Earth to find those hidden gems—the places regular tourists don’t reach—by following clusters of geotagged photos.

We usually travel off-season and rarely book our accommodations in advance, but this time I made an exception. I booked our first night in Symmetron Suites, a gorgeous property in the village of Kalamos, halfway between Volos and the southern tip of the Pelion peninsula. I chose this location because it sits at the heart of the western coast, giving us perfect access to both northern and southern trails. I figured we’d find other places to stay along the eastern coast and in the central mountains—but that plan changed once we got to know the magic of the region.

Pro Tip: If you're planning a trip to Northern Greece, fly into Thessaloniki, not Athens. But since our flight into Athens was already booked, I looked for the most scenic route to Pelion.

Athens → Pelion

Our flight landed late at night, so I booked a cozy apartment in Spata, just a few minutes from Eleftherios Venizelos Airport. We woke up early, grabbed some fresh pastries at a local bakery, and hit the road. It was a 3.5-hour drive on toll roads with two memorable stops.

Our first stop was Psoroneria, just over two hours in. This hidden gem is a hot spring stream fed by underground waters that flow into a large, natural pool—completely free and mostly visited by locals. The place is stunning. I highly recommend walking along the stream to discover shaded, peaceful spots before reaching the main pool.

Packing Tip: Start your day with swimwear, towels, water shoes, and a change of clothes already in a separate bag—you’ll thank yourself later.

Instead of staying on the highway all the way to Volos, I wanted a more scenic route. So as we approached the city, we veered off toward the coast. We picked up some fresh baguettes and local cheeses at a roadside shop and made our way to the beach at Karavomylos, where we had a beautiful seaside picnic and soaked in the views.

From there, we continued to Volos—but didn’t stop in the city. This trip was all about nature and mountain villages.

Since we reached Volos fairly early, I decided we’d visit the mountain villages of Makrinitsa and Portaria that very same day—and we did.

These two villages feel more like Alpine retreats than traditional Greek towns, thanks to their elevation and lush, mountainous surroundings. That’s what makes them so special. We wandered through the cobbled streets on foot, picked up some local herbs and spices, and then made our way to our first overnight stop: the peaceful village of Kalamos on the western Pelion coast.

The Scenic Route to Kalamos

The drive from Volos to Kalamos hugs the coastline and is absolutely breathtaking. At times, the road runs right along the sea, and other times it climbs into the hills offering panoramic views that make you want to pull over and just take it all in.

At one point, we saw a small sign that said “Rivera” pointing toward the sea. I can never resist a detour with a name like that, so we turned off the road to check it out.

What we found was a gem: a beach bar perched on a narrow spit of land stretching into the bay, with uninterrupted views all the way to Kalamos. We couldn’t resist stopping for a draft beer, soaking up the golden hour light and the laid-back vibe of this coastal hideaway. Highly recommend spending an hour or two there if you’re ever in the area.

After that magical stop, we continued on to our apartment in Kalamos.

Kalamos: Where Time Slows Down

Kalamos is a tiny fishing village—humble, quiet, and exactly the kind of place my wife and I love. It’s nestled right on the water, home to just a few guesthouses and a handful of tavernas. We stayed at Symmetron Suites, a collection of four two-story beachfront villas just five meters from the sea, on what’s essentially a private beach.

The owners also run an amazing restaurant that serves fresh seafood and hearty breakfasts. Everything we tasted there was delicious, and the breakfast spread was so generous we actually considered staying an extra night. But our curiosity got the better of us, and we decided to keep exploring.

The next morning, after a leisurely seaside breakfast, we took a long walk along the beach. Kalamos is charming, unspoiled, and full of soul—one of those places that instantly makes you want to stay longer. We already know we’ll be back someday, just to relax, unwind, and enjoy the sea.

After saying our (reluctant) goodbyes, we headed south toward the fishing village of

Agia Kiriaki, located at the southern tip of the Pelion peninsula.

The Road South: A Tapestry of Bays and Villages

The drive was a dream. The coastline is dotted with hidden coves and stunning turquoise bays, some of which are so beautiful you just have to stop and stare. Along the way, we passed through picturesque villages—some lively and tourist-friendly, others serene and authentic—like Chorto, Milina, and Koukouleika.

Every turn offered something new, something real. This was exactly the kind of Greece we had come for.

Agia Kiriaki: A Fishing Village Straight Out of a Postcard

Agia Kiriaki is a picture-perfect fishing village—but it’s also quite touristy and pricier than other parts of the region (though still cheaper than back home). Cars aren’t allowed inside, so you’ll need to park outside the village and walk in. The scenic path leads you past the charming marina, down narrow streets lined with cozy tavernas.

We strolled through the village, enjoyed a light bite, and continued our journey inland.

Discovering the Heart of Pelion: The Mountain Villages

I decided we’d spend the next two days exploring the mountain villages nestled high above the sea.

A Quick Geography of Pelion

Pelion Peninsula is a diverse wonderland, divided into three distinct regions:

• The Western Coast – Traditional Greek villages with turquoise, calm waters—think Thai islands, not mainland Greece—thanks to the protected gulf they sit on.

• The Mountain Ridge – Rising up to about 1,700 meters, this area separates the east and west coasts and even features a small ski resort. The villages and climate here feel more Alpine than Greek.

• The Eastern Coast – Facing the Aegean Sea, known for its winds and dramatic rocky shores. These are wild, rugged beaches carved into the cliffs—reminding me a bit of coastal Ireland.

Thanks to the altitude, temperatures in the mountains are much cooler than by the beach. We visited in early September, and while it was sunny along the coast, we needed jackets in the hills.

Milopotamos Beach: Wild Beauty Hidden Between Cliffs

Our first stop was Milopotamos Beach, a spectacular cove nestled between giant rocks. Reaching it involves a steep walk down from the parking area. The beach is split into three sections: a southern beach formed by seasonal stream runoff, another beach accessible by climbing and descending on the left, and—if you look closely enough—a tunnel through the rocks leading to a third, hidden beach. Don’t miss it!

Tsagkarada: Mountain Magic and Forest Trails

We found a rustic and charming guesthouse—Amalthia Traditional Guesthouse—through Booking.com in Tsagkarada, a larger village known as a gateway to the eastern beaches. After a quick price negotiation with the host, we settled in and headed out for dinner at a beautiful Italian restaurant (name unknown but unforgettable). In the mountains, you won’t find a central square—restaurants are scattered along winding lanes, so we parked and wandered on foot.

The next morning, we looked for a hiking trail and found a stunning one that begins near the village’s 1,500-year-old plane tree and the municipal building. The trail winds down to Damouchari Beach, offering a variety of landscapes. If you take this hike, arrange for a taxi to pick you up at the beach—it’s one-way and worth every step.

Damouchari itself is a must, whether you hike or drive—visit the beach, the harbor, and the old fortress if that’s your thing.

Agios Ioannis: Beach Bliss at Kenta Hotel

After soaking in the scenery and the trail, we looked for a place to rest and found Kenta Beach Hotel right on the water in Agios Ioannis. A cozy hotel with a perfect sea view, we spent the afternoon on the beach and enjoyed the stunning cliffs from our balcony.

Dinner was good (the restaurant’s name escapes me—so it probably wasn’t unforgettable), and the next morning we set off for one of the trip’s highlights: Meteora.

Meteora: Where Monasteries Float Above the Earth

After a three-hour drive, we arrived in Kalabaka, the town at the foot of Meteora. Our goal: see the sunset over one of the most breathtaking landscapes in the world.

Meteora is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and home to towering rock pillars topped with ancient Orthodox monasteries. Dating back to the late Byzantine period, these monasteries seem to float above the clouds. It’s one of the most surreal and awe-inspiring sights in Greece.

We parked, took the scenic road around the cliffs, and found the best sunset spot (link available). Sitting on the rocks among fellow travelers, we watched the sun dip behind the stone giants—pure magic.

That evening, we walked around Kalabaka, drank local beer, and enjoyed live bouzouki music at To Paramithi.

💡 Travel Tip: I rarely recommend restaurants—everyone’s taste is different—but in Greece, I’ve never been disappointed by a place rated 4.5+ on Google with over 300 reviews. And one more thing: Don’t order non-Greek dishes in Greek tavernas. Craving a burger? Go to a burger joint.

Exploring Meteora and Onward to Zagori

The next morning, we toured two monasteries—The Great Meteoron and Transfiguration of the Saviour—to get a feel for their history and atmosphere. Then we set off for Zagori, one of Greece’s most beautiful natural regions.

The drive is smooth until you enter Zagori, where the roads become narrow and winding. A 10 km stretch can feel endless. When planning routes between villages, sometimes it's faster to detour via Ioannina on the main highway.

Our first stop was an old stone bridge near Kipoi—I’ve forgotten the name, but it was stunning. We followed the trail along the dry riverbed and explored two more famous bridges nearby: Lazaridi and Plakidas. Each requires a short 20-minute hike—great for nature lovers.

Vikos Gorge: Guinness-Recognized Natural Wonder

Vikos Gorge, in the Pindus Mountains of northwestern Greece, is the deepest gorge in the world relative to its width, and the deepest in Europe. It’s up to 1,350 meters deep in places, with breathtaking views and unforgettable hikes.

Our first hike began in Monodendri, winding along the cliffside to the Monastery of Saint Paraskevi. Past the monastery, the trail becomes narrow and more adventurous—passing through caves and ledges. It’s exhilarating and safe if you're cautious.

The next day, we descended into the gorge to find one of its turquoise springs. The trailhead is near a tiny village above Aristi, and the descent is steep—900 meters of stairs. You’ll want to plan ahead: either return the same way or have a car waiting at the exit point. The hike is stunning, and the spring looks like something out of a movie. The water? Absolutely freezing—even in summer.

Final Days: Aristi to Thessaloniki

We wrapped up the day with lunch in Aristi, a village so beautiful we didn’t want to leave. But time was running out, so we headed to Thessaloniki for the last two nights.

Thessaloniki: Bustling, Fun, but Not for Everyone

Thessaloniki is a once-small fishing town turned Greek metropolis. It’s lively, packed with bars, markets, restaurants, and energy. But it’s also crowded, noisy, and in my opinion—worth no more than a night or two.

I’ve been all over Greece, and I still feel this way. Thessaloniki’s fun to visit once, but I don’t regret cutting it short in favor of more time in Zagori.

This Trip Made Us Fall in Love with Greece

That trip changed everything for us. It sparked a deep love for Greece—the landscapes, the people, and the hospitality. We’ve returned again and again, and even decided to invest and build our lives around this country.

And yes—Greeks love Israelis. We’ve seen how far they’ll go to make visitors feel welcome.

Quick Tips for First-Timers

• If you have just one week, don’t try to do it all. Choose:→ Pelion + Meteora→ or Zagori + Tzoumerka

• The best time to visit Zagori and Tzoumerka? May to July, when the streams are still flowing. Evenings can be chilly, so pack a jacket.

• Zagori & Tzoumerka = pure nature. Pelion = everything in one place.

• Roads in Zagori/Tzoumerka are winding—consider taking the main highway when possible.

• In season, there are direct flights from Israel to Volos—very convenient!

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